The objective function of interest is: $$ \phi = \text{log}|PWP^T| + \text{tr}((PWP^T)^{-1}PVP^T) $$ where $P = J + XU^T$ and $V$, $J$ and $U^T$ are known matrices. I assume that the $V$ and $W$ are positive definite.
The first partial derivative of $\phi$ with respect to $X$ is \begin{align*} Y^{-1}(JWU + JVU) + Y^{-1}X(U^TWU + U^TVU) - Y^{-1}ZY^{-1}(JWU + XU^TWU) \end{align*} where $Y = PWP^{T}$ and $Z = PVP^T$.
The first partial derivative with respect to $W$ gives $$ PWP^T = PVP^T. $$
Hence combining the solutions of partial derivatives $X = -JVU(U^TVU)^{-1}$.
If I compute $\nabla_{xx}\phi$ and evaluate at the solution what I would get is $$ [(U^TWUX^T + U^TWJ^T)Y^{-1} \otimes Y^{-1}](I + K)[(U^TWUX^T + U^TWJ^T)^T \otimes I] + (U^TVU \otimes Y^{-1}) $$
where $K$ is the commutation matrix. However, I can't see that it is symmetric. If this is not symmetric, Hessian would not be symmetric. Is it always the case that the Hessian needs to be symmetric?